Camping in the boreal forest in the Brooks Range, near the Arrigetch peaks. Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

Well, it’s well and truly spring here in Alaska, and the summer/fall hiking season right around the corner. So for anyone heading north this summer, this page might be of interest to you. Gates of the Arctic National Park is one of the less visited national parks in the state, which makes it a great place to explore and “get away”. Miles upon miles of mountain wilderness, boreal forest and alpine tundra make it a diverse and fascinating hiking region.

At the same time, it’s also a challenging expedition. Logistics for getting there, getting ‘in’ to the park, hiking across muskeg, dealing with mosquitoes, bears, rivers, and trailess terrain can be intimidating. So let’s look at a few options you might want to consider.

Getting to Gates of the Arctic

You’re options for hiking in Gates of the Arctic National Park, for most folks, start with Fairbanks. You want to head north, either up the Dalton highway (Haul Rd), or fly. If you fly, my recommendation is to fly directly to Bettles; you can catch a regularly scheduled charter flight, so it’s not super-expensive like a charter flight can be. If you take the Dalton, either ride up to Coldfoot/Wiseman, or stop at Prospect Creek (maybe 75 miles south of Coldfoot). You can fly from Prospect Creek landing strip in to Bettles (schedule with your air taxi well before leaving Fairbanks, you can’t schedule this on arrival,as there is no one there). If you go all the way up to Coldfoot, you can  hook up with an air taxi service there and fly in to the backcountry.

There is a Park Service Visitor Center there in Coldfoot where you can get some more information; but don’t expect to get a lot of trail beta there. Gather that well before you start your trip. Typically, the folks in the VC aren’t going to be able to offer you a lot of hiking information for Gates of the Arctic National Park. You’ll need to check in though, and either pick up or show them your Bear Resistant Food Canister (BRFCs are requisite for hiking/backpacking in Gates of the Arctic National Park).

Another option is to simply start hiking west from the road. The best bet for this is to head a little further north, up near Wiseman, or even further on up toward Atigan Pass. It’s arduous going, but can save you the cost of a charter flight.

So where to go in Gates of the Arctic

One popular area is the Arrigetch Peaks area. Awesome, awesome scenery. But my first ever hiking trip in Gates was right around the North Fork of the Koyukuk River, through the “Gates” themselves. Frigid Crags and Mt. Boreal. Explorer Bob Marshall named these two mountains “Gates of the Arctic” in 1929 when he explored the Central Brooks Range area. Both of these 2 regions offer some great hiking trips. But really, the park is your oyster. I don’t want to point anyone to a particular region, because part of the fun is finding your own hike. The options here are endless, so put your nose in a couple of maps and see what looks doable. Then, talk to a backcountry ranger as you start planning and see what they say about the hiking trip you’re planning. Or, drop me a noteand I’ll be glad to offer you my thoughts on the itinerary.

Hiking in the Valley of the Maidens, Arrigetch Peaks, Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve, Alaska.

How long for a hiking trip in Gates of the Arctic

Gates of the Arctic National Park is enormous; 8,472,506 acres, or 13,238 sq. miles. Thought not all “designated wilderness”, virtually every square inch of the park constitutes what we call ‘wilderness’. It’s big, broad country, mountains looping over more mountains, rivers crawling their way through the landscape, and no maintained trails. So you’re on your own. My advice, is to allow double what you think you’ll need to cover the ground you’re planning on hiking. If you think it’s a 5 day hike from Point A to Point B, allow 10. The hiking is invariably more arduous than you think it will be, and if it’s not, you’ll never run out of options for sidehikes and dayhikes along the way. You won’t be bored hiking up here.

I recommend a minimum of one week, simply because it’s so expensive and time-consuming to get here, you may as well give yourself time to enjoy it. A 3-4 day hike here isn’t a cost-effective choice, in my opinion. You want to allow a day either side of your trip for delays with your air taxi, etc.

Backcountry travel options in Gates of the Arctic

If you can, bring a packraft. A great benefit to a trip in a place with so many miles of rivers. if not, consider basecamping and hiking, or a combination of backpacking and basecamping along the way; i.e., spend 2 or 3 nights per campsite and do some hiking off the side valleys and ridges along the way. That’s a better choice than simply trying to go direct from A -> B, I think.

Preparing for your hiking trip

Be prepared for river crossings. Be prepared for bugs. Be prepared for bears. Be prepared for snow. Be prepared for +90 deg F weather. Be prepared to get lost. Be prepared for some tough hiking. Bushwhacking is a challenge, and you’ll likely run into muskeg, willow, dwarf birch and alder along the way, all of which will slow you down. Way down. Be prepared for steep ascents and descents. Be prepared to turn around. Be prepared to expect what you might never expect. Hiking in a wilderness like Gates of the Arctic National Park will very probably bring you all that, and a whole, whole lot more. You’ll love it.

Hiking gear

I would consider hiking poles just mandatory for this kind of terrain, for pretty much everyone. You’ll likely be hiking over some very diverse terrain, from moraine and boulder fields, talus and scree, muskeg, tundra, spruce forest, up steep mountains, sidehilling steep mountains, etc, and there’s simply no substitute for extra balance. Just go ahead and bring yourself some hiking poles. Also, good rain gear; you may get lucky and have awesome weather your whole trip, but you may also hike through 10 days of rain. So bring a solid tent, cook shelter, rain gear and pack cover. Most of this stuff is pretty standard, and you may want to look over the gear category posts for more and more specific information. Here’s my 2010 backpacking gear list, for example.

Safety

Remember, you’re on your own out here. So caution first, each and every time. Prevention is the best ‘fix it’ you’ll find out here, so travel carefully. Even with the latest and greatest sat phone and communications technology, there’s a very real possibility that any assistance may be days away; weather still rules #1 in Alaska. So be careful, carry a solid basic Life Support system, first aid kid, and know how to use it.

Tread Lightly

This wilderness is a rarely traveled region, and though it’s a harsh environment, it’s also very fragile. your impact will easily be noticed, So keep your group size small, your gear light, and follow the best “Leave No Trace” practices you can.

Enjoy hiking in Gates of the Arctic

Cheers

Carl

Lakes and reflections in Aquarius, a great valley to explore and hike, in the Arrigetch peaks region, Gates of the Arctic National Park.

Aurora borealis, or northern lights, winter Alaska.

Hey Folks

Image of the Month for May (sheesh, is it May already?), 2012 is an Aurora borealis photo from one of the norther lights photo tours earlier this year. We were treated to some great lights, and had a blast watching and photographing the aurora. Good times, and I’m already taking bookings for these trips next year.

Aurora borealis photography is more difficult than most folks expect it to be. it’s challenging, but also an amazing experience. Great fun and what a blast to see this kind of activity!

Cheers

Carl

A few shots from this past winter. Good times.

2011/2012 Winter Photos.

For a look at some of the aurora borealis photos from this winter, have a look at this page.

Cheers

Carl

The Wrangell mountains, near Nabesna, catch the first rays of the day. Sunrise near Jack Creek, Wrangell - St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

Welcome to Expeditions Alaska, the new name for my business, previously Alaskan Alpine Treks. I’ve thought for a long time now about changing the name, so here it is. I’ve still got a few things to tweak over the coming weeks, so if you run across any glitches, please let me know.

This image was taken early one morning on the recent snowshoe/photography trip we took to Wrangell  - St. Elias National Park. The folks who were drawn for the trip, Paul, Doug, Ryan and Jim were great fun, and it was really nice to have such a good troop of folks along.

We were treated to some awesome weather the whole time, which made the trip an easy time, for sure. Sunny skies and very little wind can make March a good time in Alaska.

We snowshoed, no skiing, as the group preferred to hike and photograph rather than ski around. I’ll try to post some more images from the trip soon enough. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy this one from one  great morning out near Nabesna.

Oh yes, one more thing to add; I’ll throw up this photo in honor of Anchorage breaking its own record for most snow in a winter. Happened today – Wax ‘em up!

Cheers

Carl

Expeditions Alaska

Dave and Bob enjoying the afternoon view of the Wrangell Mountains, Wrangell - St. Elias National Park, Alaska.

Hey Folks,

Just had 2 great trips, with friends Dave and Bob , followed by an aurora borealis photo tour as well. I’m packing now for a week long trip over to ‘the park’ with Ryan, Doug, Jim and Paul, for the free trip we put together over the winter. It should be a blast, and hopefully we get some days like this one here.

Cheers

Carl

Mount Sanford and the Copper River Basin, seen from the Mentasta Mountains, winter, boreal forest, Wrangell - St. Elias National Park, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

It’s here already; March Madness has arrived. a week in Wrangell – St. Elias National Park, a week in central and northern Alaska for the aurora borealis, a week back in Wrangell – St. Elias, and another week touring around skiing. Should be a big one.

Much like Mt. Sanford here. They don’t come too much grander than this mountain. I’ll continue to be offline a bit . then .. I have some HUGE news. See ya in April

Cheers

Carl

Jenny Creek, near the Savage River, in winter, remains free of ice and flowing, even at minus 40degree F temperatures. Denali National Park and Preserve is a winter wonderland in January, fresh snow and hoar ice blankets the land. Mt. Margaret, Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

From my trip to Denali National Park and preserve over the New Year, here’s Mt. Margaret and Jenny Creek, near the Savage River.

Not too many people get to see Denali like this, so it was a real treat to spend some time there. Wonderful trip.

Here’s to a great year.

Cheers

Carl

Brown bears at Brooks Falls, in Katmai National Park, watch a spawning Sockeye Salmon attempt to leap up the waterfall. Brown bear, or grizzly bear (Ursus arctos), Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

Many of you may or may not be aware of this critical issue. A proposed open-pit mine in Alaska, in the heart of the Bristol Bay watershed, potentially threatens some of the wildest and vital land in Alaska. The salmon fishery of Bristol Bay is one of the world’s most productive fisheries. It is also the pulse of a vibrant and productive ecosystem that’s home to the great coastal brown bears of Katmai National Park and surrounding regions. The bears we love to see and photograph grow fat on the riches of spawning salmon. The bald eagles that gather in the thousands every summer here thrive on spawning salmon.

The proposed mine, the Pebble Limited Partnership, would create a “10-square-mile-wide containment pond are intended to hold between 2.5 billion and 10 billion tons of mine waste that Pebble would produce over its lifetime”, a 700′ tall dam wall and several miles in length. One of the largest mines in the world, it’s expected to span a 20 mile swathe of Alaska State land. The acidic nature of the waste would require environmental treatment and monitoring for years to come. The potential devastation if something goes awry here, in the land of frequent volcanic and seismic activity, would be immeasurable.

The Stop Pebble Mine movement has garnered strong grassroots local  support, from commercial fishermen, local subsistence community, adventure tourism and guiding folks such as myself. Several organizations are working hard to resist this mining proposal. Trout Unlimited are one group, as are Renewable Resources Coalition and Alaska Center for the Environment.

While Pebble Mine is perhaps more of a local issue issue for Alaskans because it’s on state, not federal land, it reaches everyone across country. People come from all over the world to the Alaska Peninsula to view and photograph the great brown bears that feed on salmon here. I think it’s imperative that the photography community get behind the Stop Pebble Mine program, and do what we can to have a collective voice heard. I hope that all those other photo tour operators from across the world who come to photograph these great bears will rise to the call and say No to Pebble Mine.

Below I’ve posted a couple of videos that offer an introduction and cursory look to this question. I’d urge you all to watch these, and get involved in resisting the proposed mine. Surely shiny metals in the ground are not all that matter.

Below is a video by Corey Rich, from a trip on the Chilikadrotna River he and Daniel Duane wrote for Men’s Journal in 2008. Used by courtesy from Daniel Duane, Corey Rich. Definitely take a moment to read the article.

Alaska Dispatch has a good read on the subject here.

Cheers

Carl

Mt. Sanford, Wrangell - St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

Wow, what a great response to this; I so appreciate everyone taking the time to enter, and especially those who shared the offer around the web. Thanks so much.

So, to cut to the chase, I’ll announce the folks who were drawn here:

1) Adam Wolf/Christina Smith

2) Patsy Lascha/Charles Fry

Update: Feb 14, 2012. Unfortunately, the above folks had to cancel. I drew names again, and the following people are confirmed and heading up to visit next month:

Ryan Wright, Paul Robison, Jim Wheeler and Doug Garnhart. It should be a blast and I look forward to meeting all these folks.

It was so cool to hear from people with such a clear passion for the great outdoors and particularly for Alaska. This is definitely a special place, and it’s great to see so many people who are attuned to that.

And that’s it. I’ll try to persuade them to maybe send me a photo so I can post it here and you’ll all get to see who these people are. And we’ll definitely have some photos and videos with a full trip report posted in March.

Thanks so much, and I really wish you all a great year for 2012.

Cheers

Carl

PS: Edit, 4pm – Folks, I’ve had a few people email me and ask about an opportunity to book a trip like this as a regular trip. If anyone is interested, please let me know. If we can get a group together, 3 minimum, we can run a trip for about $1000.00 p.p.

A male brown bear, Ursus arctos, approaches up river, fishing for spawning sockeye salmon, Katmai National Park and Preserve, Alaska. Please click on the image above to view a larger version of this photo.

Hey Folks,

I thought I’d post another image from our Katmai brown bear photo tour last fall. I’ve shot this bear for so many years now; it’s awesome to go back and revisit these bears year to year, particularly the bears that are so great to photograph as this one.

When I first started photographing this bear, he was a young subadult, just out on his own. He’s nearly doubled in size over the last few years, and now is a good size bear, though still has a number of pounds to gain before he reaches his full size.

One thing that becomes so readily apparent when photographing bears is how truly individual they are. They can be as different from one to another as we are. Some bears will walk right on by, fishing and wandering the river, with little more than a sideways glance at us, while others wont’ come close at all, and seem to always keep an eye on people around the area.

This means a lot when it comes to things like how to act in bear country; it means the generalized ‘protocols’ that we read about and hear are, while valuable, not set in stone. It’s more important to pay attention to the bear, and to closely watch the bear’s signals. than to think about some line in a book at that said “In situation A, you should do B”; hard and fast rules rarely hold true, but never more so, perhaps, than when dealing with 1000lb+ predators.

Good bear sense means knowing bear behavior, and paying attention more than remember guidelines.

I stress this kinda of thing in all my safety talks, whether it’s for photo tours to places like Katmai National Park, where the brown bear population density is as high as anywhere, or backcountry backpacking trips in the arctic and the alpine mountains, where bears are fewer and further between. Being attentive and attuned to the surroundings, to the environment, is how to conduct yourself in the wilderness; and where there are brown bears, it’s wilderness. So pay attention.

…. and remember to focus on the eye!

Cheers

Carl

PS, Be sure to have a  look at the Coastal Brown Bears Photo Tour.